Since a few month I try to refactor a few of my web projects. Part of this also involves changes to the design. A topic that I actually like, but have to admit to myself that I'm not good at it. That's why I was very happy about the emergence of Bootstrap and Font Awesome back then. Libraries that you simply use and that's it. For the new design revision, however, I would like to build on Tailwind CSS and Heroicons. But for one of my projects I need a customized icon. I would like to show you how I do it.
A few weeks ago I attended a workshop by Gabriel Prange in the Berlin bouldering gym Berta Block. The workshop was about training for climbing. Part of it has been a strength analysis of the fingers. And this is still one of my weaknesses. I also discovered that finger strength training with a lifting device can have certain advantages over a classic hangboard. Even if I have a very nice beastmaker Motherboard setup.
I already had the 360° Hangboard to warm up at the crag. And enough weight plates. So all I needed was a loading or lifting pin. I found this beautiful Lifting Pin. But I thought I could handcraft a similar one by myself.
I am using my interval timer tool more often in the last couple of month. Mostly for lifting weights with my fingers. And to improve the usage of this tool I would like to play a beep sound before and after every break. One possible solution could be to load and play a audio file in JavaScript. An other solution are OscillatorNodes. I like about this approach that I do not need to buy a audio or create it on my own. And I am even more flexible on sound timing. So I created a small post to play around with OscillatorNodes.
I had a shoulder impingement a few years ago as I started climbing. Solution to the problem has been climbing with an active shoulder and also exercises from the book Climb Injury-Free. In general I can recommend this book to everybody with smaller climbing related injuries. That's why I send every climber friend a few hints and exercises from the book if they have for example a tennis or golfer elbow. Since approximately two month I have a tennis elbow or lateral epicondylosis. So today I have decided to build myself a wrist roller or dowel constrcution.
beastmaker Climbing Motherboard
Last week I have been using three different beastmaker Motherboards. Once at home, once at my lead climbing gym Magic Mountain and once at a local bouldering gym südbloc. My weight might be jumping from day to day a little bit and also between morning and evening, but the gap was noticeable. This was no surpise anymore after I found this Grippy post on Instagram. I am writing in this post a small tutorial based on this post to recalibrate your beastmaker Motherboards loadcell. Just in the case you may do not have Instagram and also to spread the word for this small issue.
beastmaker Climbing Motherboard
As I bought my beastmaker Motherboard setup I was a bit upset. I did expect from the Motherboard and Grippy App somekind of digital tools to test my finger grip strength and improve it by a training plan or workout. The part with the workouts was fine. There existed a few predefined by big names of the climbing community and there was the possibility to add your owns. Unfortunately there didn't exist precise finger strengths tests as you may know them from Lattice Trainging for example. Until I opened the Grippy App yesterday.
On the offical beastmaker 1000 page is no information about the real depth or size of the holds. I measured the real hold size with a measuring stick.
beastmaker Climbing D3 Motherboard Time Series
In the Grippy App you are able to do freehangs and export those raw data from the beastmaker Motherboard in the CSV format. In this post I would like to go through the format and visualize the data with D3 in a time series diagram.
In this post I would like to show a beastmaker backboard and training station that I build for a friend. I will tell some words about the construction, the climbing hold setup and the hangboard training app used on this board.
I started fingerboarding with my beastmaker Motherboard setup a few month ago and I didn't thought to be that weak. It took me three tries until I was able to complete the easiest workout Beasty 5a without any mistake. Afterwards I was motivated to go on with the second easiest workout Beasty 5b. I managed the 25° Sloper set and also the 3 Finger pocket 30 mm set, but both with mistakes. But the Deep 2-finger pocket 50 mm wasn't even possible after all.